Sailing VATA: July 2018

Rarotonga, Cook Islands, form off-shore to the northeast

The Cook Islands are scattered across the south Pacific, between French Polynesia and Tonga. We left Bora Bora and sailed directly to Rarotonga, a mountainous tropical island, and their little Avatiu harbour. Rarotonga has jet service to New Zealand, and has become a winter destination for Kiwis and Assies alike. Surrounded by a protecting lagoon, beautiful coral reefs and numerous beaches, the island is ringed with resorts, guest houses etc. and people come here to escape the “Austral Winter”.

When we arrived, we were greeted by Quarantine, Immigration and Customs officials. Once we cleared in we could relax, and visit the nearby town. On Saturdays the locals host a street market that cannot be missed! Everyone from the island must have been there, and so were we. Fresh produce, crafts and prepared foods of all kinds were available. The locals are Polynesians, who spoke a dialect of Polynesian, but in addition instead of French, they oddly spoke English with a New Zealand accent!

I will always be amazed by the size of some of th trees we see!

One of the food vendors at the Saturday Market in Rarotonga

A market vendor in Rarotonga

the police boat in Avatiu Harbour, Raritonga

After a few days there, we had a favourable weather window for the 813-nautical mile sail to Tonga. We obtained our outward clearance form and were at sea again! After 3 days, the wind started to build, and the forecast that we received from Predict Wind on our IridiumGo was for winds of 30+ knots for several days. This meant not only difficult winds, but very uncomfortable seas. Where to hide in the middle of an ocean?

One day away, was a seldom visited place called Beveridge Reef. It is within Niue’s territory, 120 nm ESE of Niue, enabling them to increase their 200 nm exclusive economic zone considerably. The reef is 2 miles wide and six miles long, with a breaking reef everywhere but a small entrance on the west side. It has no islands, no trees, no beaches, but the huge ocean swells break on the reef, and all that is left in the lagoon is a little chop, and the wind. This would be where we could wait out the blow that was coming. We were all alone, but safe, in this “the loneliest anchorage in Oceania”. This is where we celebrated Canada Day 2018!

Satellite picture of Beveridge Reef, Niue

Giant ocean swells are broken by the fringing reef, and the lagoon is relatively flat.

A beautiful sky at day's end on Beveridge Reef

With the weather improving, we set sail once again for Tonga in rough seas. 3 days later (a total of 8 days from Rarotonga) we arrived in the Kingdom of Tonga! We sailed through the Vava’u Group to the protected harbour in Refuge Bay for Health, Customs and Immigration clearance at the dock in Neiafu, the capital of Vava’u. After clearing in, we found a mooring for what would equal $7.50 CDN per day, which was much safer than anchoring outside the mooring field in 100’ of water.

By the way, they have fruit bats here that are the size of eagles!

The anchorage in Neiafu, Vava'u, Tonga

Some things here are pretty basic, like this gas station...

A large tree at the waterfront where people gather and talk.

Vendors at the Neiafu market near the waterfront.

It is a quiet community that has one main street, and a wonderful market at the waterfront. Tongans are friendly, soft-spoken people who are always smiling! On Sunday, we attended mass at the St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and were awed with the singing! Beautiful harmonies without a choir, because the people there could all sing! Likely the most beautiful singing at church anywhere…

Parishoners after mass outside the St. Joseph Cathedral in their traditional dress.

While we were here, we also wanted to sail around the island group and see some of the beautiful islands, beaches and coral reefs, many of which are protected areas. One day we sailed to Hunga Island, and entered its lagoon with an ebbing tide with just feet to spare under our keel. We took a mooring at Hunga Haven, run by Canadians originally from Winnipeg. Barry was so happy that a Canadian boat was at one of his moorings, he came out the next morning to get a picture to post on his Face Book page!

The outdoor shower at Hunga Haven Eco Resort

A dugout outrigger canoe in the Hunga Island lagoon

Beautiful rock formations at the entrance to Hunga Island lagoon

Next, we sailed to Nuapapu Island and anchored off a nearby wharf. We found out the village was hosting a traditional Tongan Feast on the beach that evening, a rare opportunity not to be missed. They had traditional Tongan dance, a fire dancer and a wide variety of local dishes served buffet style. One of the elderly villagers commented to Karen that I really seemed to enjoy the food, and even went up for seconds.

Approaching Nuapapu Island in the Vava'u Group, Tonga

The next morning, we visited the village on Nuapapu, population of 40. From the wharf, we followed a dirt path through the forest until we arrived at a little village of simple homes, many with one room houses, outdoor cooking area, and a pig pen nearby. We made a point to visit the school, where they have two classrooms: Grades 1,2,3, and Grades 4, 5, 6. After that, the children have to go to Neiafu to attend high school. We gave them a book to add to their library, and a bundle of exercise books.

Approaching the village on Nuapapu, after a 0.5 km walk through the forest

An outdoor cooking station in the village

One of the two classrooms in the Nuapapu school

The grade 1-3 class. They had never heard of Canada before...

We returned to Neiafu, because the King of Tonga was in town to among other things, attend the Royal Agricultural and Fisheries Show, which we wanted to attend as well. Everybody in the Vava’u Island Group must have been there! There were prize hogs and chickens on display, cattle, fresh catches from the sea, woven mats and tapa cloths for sale and so much more. The King gave a speech and presented awards. There was a lot of pomp and ceremony, with bands playing, choirs singing, and most Tongans dressed in their finest traditional Tongan dress.