La Flueve!

It was sad leaving Brockville, thinking of when I would see my father again, but I was also eager to continue our voyage. We left Brockville and sailed downstream toward the two American Locks on this stretch of the St. Lawrence Seaway: the Eisenhower and Snell Locks.  They were far easier to transit because there was no line-handling involved – you just toss a loop from your mid-ship line around a bollard, cleat it off, and down you go! 

Floating bollards in the Eisenhower lock

That night we anchored east of Cornwall.  It is interesting anchoring in a current, because the wind direction doesn’t dictate your swing direction, instead the boat’s keel rides the current.

We got up early and headed toward Lac Saint-Francois, a significant widening of the St. Lawrence River. Wind was 15 knots on the nose, so we motored into 1.5 m waves.

Sailor's Church in Kahnanakwe upstream from the Beauharnois locks.

We waited for a lift bridge to open and proceeded through the two Beauharnois Locks.  We were now at the junction of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Rivers. We anchored to the north to rest and prepare for the last two locks at Montreal which we would complete tomorrow. We were under the approach to Dorval’s Pierre Elliot Trudeau Airport, and there was a constant flow of jets overhead.

As we neared the canal entrance, the city of Montreal grew on the horizon. However, during the transit through Cote Saint-Catherine and Saint Lambert Locks, the Montreal city-scape was obstructed the entire time by a treed break wall. When we entered Montreal harbour, though, what a sight! Ships, docks, cranes everywhere!

Montreal from below the last lock, Saint Lambert

Montreal harbour is the busiest we've seen yet

The AIS on the chart plotter lit up with targets. We had hoped to fill our tank with diesel around the corner at Longueil, but marinas here were suffering from high water levels just as in Lake Ontario, and many services were not available. As we proceeded downstream, we used the Nautiguide Quebec to find marinas with diesel. We anchored behind an island between Boucherville and Varennes, and emptied two Gerry cans of diesel that we had previously stored on deck.

Friday, June 16^th, we made our way to Contrecouer and sailed with the strong current, and a breeze from behind us, almost at a steady 7 knots, sitting completely flat – no heel! One of the most comfortable sails ever! At Contrecouer’s Port de Plaisance de Contrecouer marina, Stephan, the owner’s son drove us and our 4 empty diesel cans to a gas station at the edge of town and back, and would not take any compensation.  We spent the night at the marina.  We had showers, and walked to the IGA, a beautiful store, and loaded up on groceries, and carried them back. 

The Catholic church on Contrecouer

Afterwards, we went over to Pub Chez Phillipe for a beer and a small poutine – when in Quebec….! Oh yes, I nearly forgot: it is really, really, French around here. English is never heard, and many people don’t speak English to help. So out comes my high school French, and we are getting by just fine.

Off to another anchorage at the beginning of Lac Saint-Pierre, then on to Trois Rivieres where tidal effects begin.

The St. Lawrence river is central to Quebec history and culture, and here they refer to it simply as "la flueve".

High water at the top of Lac Saint-Pierre where we anchored.

Lake Ontario water is being dumped down the St. Lawrence increasing current and water levels.