Pacific Ocean – Part 4: Tahiti and the Society Islands

Pacific Part 4 includes our time in the beautiful islands of Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora!

As mentioned in the previous blog, Papeete, Tahiti, is the hub of the south Pacific islands. It is a city. We took a bus into town and explored. We found a huge market downtown where local fruits, vegetables and fish were available. There were also many crafts for sale. Elsewhere in the core, there were numerous shops, restaurants, bars and chandleries. There was also a Carfourre store nearby so we were able to stock up at relatively reasonable prices.

Produce department in the Carrefour store close to Marina Taina

Part of the Papeete Market

 

Sunset over Moorea, seen from the Marina Taina on Tahiti

The jagged peaks of the mountains lining Cooks Bay

From Papeete, we took the short sail to Moorea, which is a very mountainous island to the west, and can be seen from most of the west coast of Tahiti.  Moorea is a beautiful island with numerous jagged mountain peaks formed by extinct volcanoes.  We entered the lagoon surrounding the island at the northeast side, and entered Cooks Bay.  Several boats were anchored at the head of the bay, close to town, and we found a spot among them.  The next morning, we went into town and found a large supermarket, but we didn’t need anything other than fresh baguettes.

Several of the large yachts anchored in outer Cooks Bay.

We raised the anchor, and moved to the next bay, Baie d’Opunohu, where we anchored near the entrance among a large fleet of sailboats.  Close-by was a beach and park, which we dinghied to.  The bay was striking with the surrounding peaks!

The Hilton Moreea Lagoon, east of the anchorage in Baie d'Opunohu

Beautiful Scenery in Moorea! This is the road around the entire island.

 

The start of a outrigger canoe race in Baie d'Opunohu.

We left the next afternoon, for an overnight sail to Huahine, 14 hours to the northwest. We anchored the following morning near Fare, the main village in Huahine, and visited the village. Each island has its own uniqueness, and Huahine was not different. Reportedly the most untouched (by tourism and development) this island is changing nevertheless.  We feel blessed to see these special places before they lose their quaintness.

"Downtown" Fare, the main village in Hauhine.

We have grown to love baguettes, which are readily available all over French Polynesia

We left Huahine for Raiatea, the long-time cultural and religious centre for Polynesians.  Near the southeast side of the island is a UNESCO site Marae Taputaputea, which we wanted to visit. It is in the center of the Polynesian triangle and was the political, ceremonial, and funerary centre, and the marae were paved rectangles of stone where the living world intersected with the world of their ancestors and the gods. Lots of “mana” here!

Sailing to Raiatea

The next day we had a beautiful sail up the east side of Raiatea inside the lagoon (no waves) where we were close enough to the shoreline to take in the scenery for several hours.  Eventually, we rounded the north end and found an anchorage on the east side of Tahaa, tucked into the mountains.

Coconut palms line the shoreline of Raiatea

Dinghy back on deck, we left in the morning for Bora Bora, allegedly the most beautiful island in the world.  After 5 hours of sailing, we entered the lagoon and anchored near Vaitape, the main village. 

While the island is incredibly picturesque, it is heavily commercialized with pricey resorts and pearl shops, and overall very expensive.  Due to its remoteness and cost, it has become a place for the rich and famous, not us.  In Bora Bora, we wanted to see a traditional drum and dance show, but dinner and the show at one of the area luxury resorts would have cost hundreds of dollars so we were quite disappointed.  But by talking with the locals, we found one in a nearby soccer field one night where the Vaitape community members had assembled to practice for the upcoming July competition between all the villages of Polynesia. Dozens of drummers, ukulele and guitar players, singers, and nearly 100 dancers were practising their art – and it was fantastic, and free!

The extinct volcaninc peaks and surrounding lagoon make Bora Bora the most beautiful island.

Tim and Karen seeing the sights in Vaitape

Entertainment by local men outside the Chin Lee grocery store in Vaitape, Bora Bora

Karen enjoying the crystal clear water in Bora Bora Lagoon

 

The drummers of Bora Bora, practising their art!

French Polynesia is a beautiful country covering a gigantic expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, peppered with beautiful little islands.  The best part of the country were here people: mostly Polynesian, with their culture of kindness to travellers, humility, generosity and laughter.

  

Maururu (merci)and parahi oe (au revoir) to all the wonderful people of French Polynesia!

The Gardenia is French Polynesia's flower, and is worn in the hair, or in leis.

Mass and 2 baptisms at the Vaitape Catholic church on Father's Day

We cleared out of French Polynesia at the Bora Bora Gendarmerie, with plans to make a five-day sail to Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands.