Nova Scotia

One last word before we move on from Summerside, P.E.I.: After we returned the rental car, they were kind enough to drive us back to the marina. On our return, I realized that I had plugged in my phone at the rental place, and forgot it there. We entered the marina, and on learning what had happened, one of the restaurant waitresses offered use of her car to retrieve the phone, saving me a 5 kilometre walk in 26ºC. So, kudos to the waitress at the Silver Fox Curling and Yacht Club in Summerside, P.E.I.!

We left Summerside in the morning with the primary goal of moving east and getting under the Confederation Bridge that spans the Northumberland Straight and links P.E.I. with New Brunswick.  The wind was a bit on the nose so we tacked several times and finally passed under around noon.

Approaching the Confederation Bridge

We maintained our course southeasterly with the wind favouring us, and made good time under one of the best sails so far! We made our way towards Pugwash, Nova Scotia, which looked to be a suitable anchorage for the night, considering forecasted winds. We did not go to shore, but it looked like a wonderful cottaging area, with a number of people swimming, playing on the beach and rock areas.

In the morning, we set sail for the east, with the aim to see how far the wind would take us. It was another hot day, so we are lucky to be out on the water!  We saw a dolphin cross our bow! Winds were light, but we made it to Tatamagouche Bay where we anchored again, without going to shore. A few boaters came by to say hi. Tomorrow’s forecast is even lighter winds.

Monday, July 17, 2017, we moved on again toward Pictou, but hoping we would get further.  We sailed along the coast, enjoying the beautiful scenery that was going by… slowly… appreciating everything, and doing our best to keep cool in the heatwave.  Fog set in at noon.  Not a thin veil, but a true East Coast “thick as pea soup” kind of fog, that makes us thankful that we were prepared with AIS and radar, and our chart plotter! We finally ended our day at the outside of Merigomish Harbour at Calhoun Point, just as the fog was lifting.

And what a beautiful sight! A 2-kilometre-long sand beach, and we anchored around a protective rocky point. The beach, we later learned, is part of Melmerby Beach Provincial Park, and is one of the warmest beaches north of Virginia on the North American Atlantic coast!  We rowed into shore and picked a spot with few people to pull ashore.  The water was shallow, and very warm. 

Melmerby Beach, NS with Vata anchored nearby

We had one of the most peaceful anchorages so far at this spot, with no waves, no wind, and no noise – no halyards slapping or ropes clanging inside the mast, and no waves lapping on the hull. Wonderful!

Dawn at Melmerby Beach

The next stretch of coastline toward the Straights of Canso has no harbours; no anchorages; no places to hide in the event of bad weather, so after we checked the forecast, we decided to motor to the next anchorage 41 nautical miles distant.  We saw a surprisingly high number of dolphins as we passed Georgeville. Later that day, on July, 18, 2017, (day 67 after leaving the North Channel Yacht Club), we made it to Havre Boucher, at the top of the Straight of Canso, where we tucked in for the night.

Houses and buildings onshore at Harvre Boucher, NS

We had placed an order for charts and Sailing Directions with Binnacle Marine a few weeks ago, and the parcel was waiting for us in Port Hawkesbury!

 

The Canso Canal

Highway/railway bridge opens to let us pass toward Port Hawkesbury

Port Hawkesbury Marina

We went into Port Hawkesbury and topped up with diesel and water. The dockmaster at the marina was very kind and allowed us to stay there while we went into town. He was looking for a ride for us, when a man just sitting in his car at the dock offered us a ride. It is always a surprise when people do nice things for others! We will have much to pay forward.  We left the marina and anchored around the corner, but it was a noisy night… train tracks along each shore of the bay, a busy street nearby, and of course the port.

Trains moving around on both shores beside our anchorage at Port Hawkesbury

In the morning, we moved on through the Straights of Canso and into Chedabucto Bay on the way to Canso. 

Canso, NS

It was a pretty town, but we could not find a suitable anchorage, so we went into the next bay, Glasgow Harbour, and found a very safe anchorage.  The windmills of Canso towered over us, while seals bobbed their heads around us.

Canso Windmills seen from Glasgow Harbour

The following night we spent in Yankee Cove in Whitehead Harbour, slightly further south. There was an aquaculture site there, but otherwise very desolate. Trees are stunted and bud-wormed or over-mature and dying. This is a largely undeveloped wild coast, and it is thrilling to be discovering this area the way explorers always have - by sea! Fortunately we have modern technology, charts and Sailing Directions to assist us.

Shoreline at Yankee Cove

The following night we spent in Fisherman’s Harbour in Never Fail Cove. It was a nice protected cove with a fishing fleet and dock.  One of the boats went out to take the grandchildren fishing and stopped by to chat. The boat was called “I’se The Bye” (I’m not making this up) registered in Halifax, and the grandkids were visiting from Waterloo, Ontario!

I'se the Bye from Fisherman's Harbour

Fishing warf in Never Fail Cove, Fisherman's Harbour, NS

From Fisherman’s Harbour, we had a beautiful sail all day to Liscombe Harbour, where we made our way up the river to Liscombe Resort and Conference Centre. We dinghied in and met Chester, the head of the resort’s marine department.  He has worked there for 40 years, and has never been past Halifax.  When we anchored in the narrow river earlier, unbeknownst to us, he gave us advice on where to anchor, and it turns out he is a licensed sea captain, tour guide and drives tourists on a river tour to the Atlantic and knows this area like the back of his hand. We held and our keel never touched bottom.  The resort is very nice, and has an excellent restaurant, pool, whirlpool, sauna, and the main lobby is reminiscent of Bob Newhart’s Vermont lodge in his old TV show!

Planked salmon being smoked for the Liscombe Lodge dinner

The Reception at Liscombe Lodge