Sailing VATA: Vamouskie to Rimouski!

We sailed downstream, heeding the tides, which caused us to shorten our distances considerably. We stayed at Berthiume-Sur-Mer and Saint-Pierre-Port-Joli on the south shore east of Quebec City. Now a bit about each: when we entered the first, we ran aground in soft mud after misinterpreting sticks in the water, some with red markings, one with none, thinking it was green? Nope! Marina staff came quickly to kedge us off before the tide ebbed further, and then we saw what the sticks meant! Speaks volumes for local knowledge.

Sticks in the mud flat at low tide marking the marina entrance in Berthiume-Sur-Mer

Later that evening, we met Ron, who was walking his dog down the dock, who had sailed extensively for over 30 years, much of it around here. Ron was fully bilingual and he gave us all kinds of information on marinas and anchorages, and that he planned to be at the some one as us the next night too. He explained the next marina entrance, because it was tricky.

The next morning, we left Berthiume-Sur-Mer, and the wind allowed us to make a long tack northward toward Grosse Isle, Canada’s quarantine island before the world wars. Parks Canada provides tours of the site, but timing of the tides needed us to keep going to get to our next port 2.5 hours after low tide.

Saint-Pierre-Port-Joli has a sheet steel wharf jutting out into the river, and the entrance and marina are protected with huge rock breakwalls. We called on VHF Channel 68, and the operator was expecting us, gave instructions – in French. I advised I did not understand, and Ron’s voice came over the radio, having just docked his own boat, giving me instructions on how to enter. What a relief! Well, this was the most difficult marina entrance I ever experienced! The rising tide had waters swirling into a whirlpool between the entry breakwalls, and it looked like a dead end! Then an opening appears beside the steel wharf, and a side current threatens to throw the boat into the rocks! We managed to get into the basin to see a confusion of floats, and slowed down, only to get stuck in the mud! We backed out and made it to the dock.

The church in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli

When I called in yesterday for the reservation, I had a prepared speech in French, advising of our boat’s details and time of arrival, so the dockmaster thought my French was pretty good. He couldn’t understand why I couldn’t understand his instructions today. Laughs all around afterwards!

It was Saint Jean-Baptiste Day today, and the whole town was abuzz! We walked to the nearby waterfront park where there was live music, face painting, food and beverages. The fireworks were being set up for tonight. We had dinner with Ron and Jocelyn that evening and shared sailing stories. We said goodbyes, because we would be leaving early in the morning and returned to our boat… to hear the echoes of the firework’s explosions bouncing of the wharf! What a noise! Impressive fireworks for a town this size!!

On Sunday, June 25^th, we left bright and early (6:00 a.m.) at high tide, caught the ebb current 2 miles offshore and sailed toward Cacouna harbour, a bit past Riviere du Loup. The water began to change today – we could see the St. Lawrence “brown”, and off to the north a strip of green water appeared. For hours, we watched as the green water got closer and closer. Finally, we were surrounded by green, much cleaner water – and it was salty! And cold! We anchored in the north end of Cacouna harbour, and studied the tide tables and current for tomorrow’s passage to Tadoussac on the north shore. Wildlife is also changing, and we saw seals and great black-backed gulls.

I pulled this sea urchin up on the anchor chain in Cacouna Harbour, then let it go...

Tadoussac has the strongest currents in the St. Lawrence River, but is also home to an isolated population of beluga whales, so we chose adventure! And that's what we got. As soon as we left Cacouna, we saw our first belugas, and we saw them continuously all day! The belugas are endangered, so we made every effort not to disturb the mothers and calves and kept our distance. Therefore the pictures we did get, you really can't see them.

Swirling waters where the Saguenay meets the St. Lawrence near Tadoussac

Timing is everything, but we were off by an hour and hit the rising tide before Tadoussac, and it wanted to throw us on shore. We battled that current, and then saw rapids at the mouth of the Saguenay River! We had hoped to find an anchorage past the marina empty and got lucky - L'Anse a la Barque is a tiny cove protected on three sides by the famous steep fiord walls of the Saguenay River, and it was stunning! Boreal forest all around. Seals swam by, popping their heads up curiously.

View from our private anchorage at L'Anse al la Barque - this picture does it no justice.

In the morning, there was a starfish on the anchor chain as it reached the boat, and he said hello to me, then fell back into the water.

the famous light station south of Tadoussac

All this dawdling through the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence has seemingly put us a tad behind schedule, so we had to push on. We ran the tide, and vamouskie'd to Rimouski. Yes, this town actually exists, and we stopped there to pick up diesel and water. A grocery store was nearby and we were allowed to stay at a dock while we ran into town.

Returning from groceries in Rimouski

We anchored outside of town, as the winds would not be a problem tonight.

In the morning Wednesday, June 28th, we made our way to L'Anse Petit Metis, a small and rocky cove that offered protection from westerly winds. It was beautiful, complete with a lighthouse. We dinghied around the rocks and saw more seals, schools of large fish and mussels! We later found out that the mussels here have a toxin and they are not safe to eat.

Karen seal watching at low tide in L'Anse Petit Metis

L'Anse Petit Metis Lighthouse

Sea bed at low tide at L'Anse Petit Metis

The next day we sailed and motor-sailed to Cap Chat where there is a small fishing port, and overnight guests pay a flat rate of $25.00 plus tax. They had an included shower and free laundry!

The village of Cap Chat, with the fishing harbour's break wall along the shoreline.

The next day brought us to Sainte-Annes-des-Monts, where we stayed at a marina due to forecasted north-easterly winds, which make even the locals scowl. We waited out a gale warning on Canada Day 2017, Canada's 150th birthday, and our 50th day since we began our trip! Happy Birthday, Canada!